Components box
Thermally Broken Aluminium Bi-folding Door
Box contents key
- Fixing plugs
- Fork pin cover caps
- Wedge gasket
- Bottom trolley
- Top trolley
- Magnetic keep
- D-handle
- Cill end cap
- Long back plate lever/lever handle
1.1. Fixing kit to install up to 8 door leaves, including a selection of
packers 1mm-6mm, 35 4mm x 40mm glazing packers and screws.
- 25mm self-tapping screws
- Appropriate fixings for lintel
- Mixed selection of frame packers
- 4mm glazing packers (min 32mm wide)
- Appropriate drill bits for drilling lintel and jamb packers
- 13mm HSS or blade type drill bit
- Long series 3.5mm drill bit
- SDS drill with appropriate size drill bits for your preferred frame fixings
- Battery screwdriver
- Saw for cutting aluminium cill
- Long straight edge
- Long spirit level
- String line
- Measuring staff
- Phillips 2, Pozi 2 & large flat hand screwdrivers
- 2 no. 4mm Allen keys
- 2.5mm Allen key
- 3mm Allen key
- Flat bar
- Plastic/ rubber hammer
- Glazing paddle
- Gasket sheers
- Foam gun
- Silicone & gun
Note: If it is necessary to pack the outer frame by more than 6mm, a solid plastic or
hardwood packer should be used.
- 2.1. Measure the opening and check it fits with all measurements on your Origin paperwork.
- 2.2. Carefully unpack the tracks and jambs.
- 2.3. On the hinge jamb, place a jamb packer level with each hinge. The last jamb packer
should be placed centre point between the top & middle hinge.
- 2.4. On the locking jamb, place a jamb packer 50mm down and 50mm up from the top and
bottom of the jamb. With the remaining jamb packers, place one above and one below the centre keep.
- 2.5. Secure jamb packers by inserting a screw either side, see FIG 2A.
- 2.6. Spaced at a maximum of 500mm apart, place the correct frame packers along the
length of the opening, creating a level, well supported platform for the track/cill to sit.
FIG 2A3. Cill
(if no cill,move to step 4.)
- 3.1. Cut the cill to the correct length to fit the opening with or without horns.
- 3.2. Using an appropriate silicone sealant, fill the ends of the cill section
and install the end caps.
- 3.3. Place the cill on the prepared frame packers in the opening.
- 3.4. Recheck for level, adjust if necessary.
NOTE: Move on to step 4 if the width is under 3600mm.
- 3.5. Using a string line, make sure the cill does not have a bow.
- 3.6. Fix the cill through the thermal break every 1000mm (shown in FIG 3A) using
your preferred fixings. Fill each hole with silicone before inserting the fixing.
- 3.7. Recheck for level, adjust if necessary.
FIG 3ANote: The cill should be positioned with the back edgeoverhanging the building cavity;
the distance specified by the local authority building regulations.
- 4.1. Joining tracks (if applicable).
- 4.1.1. All joints in the track are pre-made in the factory and separated for
transport. When joints are pre-made, we recommend clear silicone to seal the joint.
- 4.2. Carefully remove the gasket from each end of the top and bottom track by
approximately 200mm.
- 4.3. Where possible, lay out the tracks and jambs in the correct positions with all
labels facing up, being careful not to scratch the powder coat.
- 4.4. Position the jambs into the tracks using the connectors provided as shown in
FIG 4A.
- 4.5. Using a rubber mallet, gently tap the jambs in to the track as shown in FIG 4B.
NOTE: If more than a tap is needed, the connectors are not aligned with the tracks.
- 4.6. If applicable, using silicone, seal along the two ends and back lip of the cill
where the bottom track will sit.
- 4.7. Install the outer frame and insert frame packers above the top track at each
end, compressing tracks, jambs and cill (if fitted), together closing all unwanted gaps and
temporarily holding the frame in position as shown in FIG 4C.
- 4.8. Make sure the bottom track is pushed up against the lip at the back of the
cill (if fitted) and is central in the opening.
5. Fixing the outer frame
- 5.1. Fix the bottom track and cill as shown in FIG 5A. Position the fixings
approximately 100mm in from each end of the track and one fixing every door width along the length.
If there is no cill, fix the bottom track to the brick/ block below, making sure it is straight and
remains level
- 5.2. Using a 13mm drill bit, make a hole in the outer layer of polyamide, level
with the centre of each jamb packer. This will allow installation of the fixing plug as shown in
FIG 5B.
- 5.3. Using the correct size HSS bit for your preferred fixing, drill through each
jamb packer. To protect your drill bit, place a putty knife (or similar) betweenthe jamb packer and
brick.
- 5.4. Align the bottom of the jambs with the end of the bottom track. Using frame
packers between the jamb packers and the wall, level out the jambs in all directions and fix into
position with your preferred fixings as shown in FIG 5C.
- 5.5. Align the end of the top track with the top of the jamb as shown in FIG 5D.
- 5.6. Install a fixing in the top track approximately 100mm in from the jamb as
shown in FIG 5E, being careful not to lift the track from the top of the jamb when the fixing is
tightened.
- 5.7. Using the string line and pinch rod or measuring staff, make sure the track
does not bow inside to out, or up and down, as shown in FIG 5F.
- 5.8. Install the remaining fixings into the top track in line with the bottom track
fittings, being careful not to bow or twist the track.
- 5.9. Trim and reinstall the track gasket.
- 6.1. Remove the bottom carriage and fork assembly from its packaging, and using a
5mm frame packer, check the ride height is set correctly as shown in FIG 6A.
- 6.2. Place the bottom carriage and fork assembly into the bottom track as shown in
FIG 6B. The fork should point to the outside if the doors are open out, and inside if the doors
open in. Repeat this process until all bottom carriage assemblies have been installed.
- 6.3. Install all top fork guide wheels and move down the track to the opposite end.
The thicker side of the wheel should be on top as shown in FIG 6C.
- 6.4. Insert the top fork between two guide wheels and lower down to locate the pins
into them from above, as shown in FIG 6D&E. Repeat this process until all top forks are installed.
FIG 6C8. False mullion
(even number of doors moving in the same direction only)
- 8.1. Remove the centre hinge from the mullion.
- 8.2. With the last door at 90° to the tracks, locate the top and bottom forks around the hinges.
- 8.3. Position the mullion into the tracks and slide along to mate with the hinges and forks as shown in FIG 8A.
- 8.4. Insert both top and bottom fork pins as described in the previous section.
- 8.5. Replace the centre hinge and screws being careful not to cross thread the screws.
FIG 8AD-handles (open out only)
- 9.1. Position the D-handle over the centre hinge above the slave handle.
- 9.2. Fix the handle top and bottom using the D-handle fixings.
These may need a gentle tap to locate the thread.
D-HandleHafi handles
Style 253/280
Style 251/280
Style 301/280
Style 303/280Long Back Plate Lever/Lever Handles
- 9.3. Remove the screws from the lever handle, allowing the two halves to be
separated.
- 9.4. Insert the spindle and a return spring (if supplied) into the outer part
of the handle. (The outer handle will have the thread for the handle screws).
- 9.5. Making sure the lever is across the glass, insert the spindle into the lock.
- 9.6. Locate the handle around the barrel and flush against the door.
- 9.7. Install the internal part of the handle and second return spring
(if supplied), again with the lever across the glass.
NOTE: Always keep a hand on the external handle to prevent damage.NOTE: It may be necessary to slacken the retaining screw on the barrel
to help alignment. Always re-tighten.
- 9.8. Install the two screws and carefully tighten with a hand screwdriver only.
Hafi Stainless Steel Handles (separate handle and barrel)
- 9.9. Locate the handles and 4 no. 20mm x M5 screws from the components box.
- 9.10. Remove the escutcheons from both handles.
- 9.11. Insert the spindle into one lever and nip the grub screw using a 3mm
Allen key.
- 9.12. Install the handle and spindle into the door with the lever across the
glass.
- 9.13. Insert the 20mm x M5 screws and tighten using a Pozi 2 hand screwdriver
only, being careful not to cross thread the screws.
- 9.14. Install the remaining lever onto the door and secure in place, as described
in the previous step and nip the remaining grub screw.
- 9.15. Install both inner and outer escutcheons with the small cut out pointing down.
NOTE: It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to gently tap the
escutcheons fully into position.
Hafi handles
Style 253/280 Style 251/280 Style 301/280 Style 303/280 10. Centre hinge
(open in only)
- 10.1. Open the doors and locate the missing centre hinges.
- 10.2. Making sure the two halves of the top and bottom hinges are together,
install the centre hinge, being careful not to cross thread the screws.
NOTE: All hinges will be found in the components box.
- 11.1. Close all doors and fully engage the locks.
- 11.2. Starting with the door next to the hinge jamb, remove the 4 glazing beads.
- 11.3. Place 2 no. 4mm packers (32mm wide minimum) in the bottom of the glazing chamber
spaced approximately 50mm in from each corner at 90° to the door, as shown in FIG 11A.
- 11.4. Install the glass on to the packers, taking care not to pinch the gasket on
the outside.
- 11.5. Insert another 4mmpacker (32mm wide minimum) to the side of the glass diagonally
opposite the toe and heel plate about 50mm up from the corner,making sure to support the inner and
outer layers of the glass, as shown in FIG 11B.
- 11.6. Using a glazing paddle at the bottom, lift the glass and turn the packer which is
diagonally opposite the toe and heel plate so it is in line with the glass, making sure inner and outer
layers are supported, as shown in FIG 11B.
- 11.7. Remove the second packer from under the glass and insert into the side, at the
top of the door diagonally opposite the first two packers, making sure inner and outer layers of glass
are supported.
- 11.8. Using the glazing paddle, lever the door up and place a 4mm glazing packer
(32mmwide minimum) between the top of the glass and the toe and heel plate,making sure both inner and
outer layers of the glass are supported.
- 11.9. Reinstall all 4 glazing beads starting with the top and bottom.
- 11.10. Repeat steps 11.4 to 11.9 until all the glass is in place.
Notes: The packer positions will always be set by the location of the toe and heel
plate and will be opposite to the adjoining door, as shown in FIG 11C.
If the glass is not square or stepped, it may be necessary to use a thinner packer between the glass
and toe and heel plate. These should always be a minimum of 32mm wide.
12. Installing the wedge gasket
- 12.1. Starting with the bottom bead, use the glazing paddle to gently lever the bead
away from the glass and into the correct position whilst lifting the side beads.
- 12.2. Place the gasket between the glass and bead with the concave side against the glass.
- 12.3. Feed the gasket behind the side bead until it stops and then continue along the
bottom bead compressing the gasket towards the start point.
- 12.4. Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.3 with the top bead.
- 12.5. Cut a slight angle on the end of the gasket and insert behind the side bead
pushing up to meet the top gasket.
- 12.6. Continue to feed the gasket along the side bead, compressing towards the starting
point.
- 12.7. Once the bottom is reached, cut the gasket approximately 5mmpast the bottom gasket
again with a slight angle to meet the bottom gasket.
- 12.8. Repeat steps 12.5 to 12.7 with the remaining side.
- 12.9. Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.8 with the remaining doors.
13. Toe and heel adjustment
- 13.1. If adjustment is needed, you will find a toe and heel device in the top of
each door.
- 13.2. Open the doors so that you can get access to the toe and heel device at the
top of the door. Using a 4mm Allen key, wind the bolt clockwise, causing the side of the door to rise.
- 13.3. Re-close the doors and check that they run parallel and evenly to the top and
bottom tracks. If they do not, then repeat as necessary.
- 13.4. Once you have adjusted the doors, make sure that each toe and heel plate is
tight to the glass in each door, this will prevent the doors from settling over time.
NOTE: All adjustment comes from the outer frame.
Tracks
- 14.1. To check the top and bottom tracks are parallel, open all the door leaves
completely.
- 14.2. At this point, the pins in the centre of the top guide wheel should be fairly
flush with the visible face of the guide wheel, as shown in FIG14A. Move the doors along the track
whilst monitoring the pins in the top guide wheels. If the top and bottom tracks are parallel, the
visible pin should remain the same as at the start.
- 14.3. If the visible pin decreases at any point, the top track will need
repacking to raise it up at these points.
FIG 14A - 14.4. If the visible pin increases at any point, the top track will need
repacking to lower it at these points.
NOTE: The bottom track must be well supported and level for the description
above to be correct.
Jambs
- 14.5. When the lead door is closed, there should be a visible gap of 4mm
between itself and the jamb or locking style, adjust as follows if necessary.
- 14.6. Remove the two centre fixings from one jamb.
- 14.7. Remove the top fixing from that jamb.
- 14.8. Repack the top of the jamb to give a 4mm gap between the edge of the
lead door and jamb.
- 14.9. Replace the fixing in the top of the jamb.
- 14.10. Remove the bottom fixing from the jamb.
- 14.11. Repack the bottom of the jamb to give a 4mm gap between the edge of the
lead door and jamb.
- 14.12. Replace the fixing in the bottom of the jamb.
- 14.13. Pack and replace the remaining two fixings, keeping the even 4mm gap.
- 15.1. Locate the magnetic keep from the components box.
- 15.2. Open the lead door almost 180° until the handle is approximately 10mm from
the adjoining door and hold in position.
- 15.3. Position the complete magnetic keep up between the top of both doors and move
along until it is wedged between them, as shown in FIG 15A.
- 15.4. Using a pencil, mark the magnet holder position on the lead door.
- 15.5. Close the lead door.
- 15.6. Return the magnet holder to your mark and move up or down to position in the
centre of the door profile. The centre of the hole should be 26mm down from the top of the door.
- 15.7. Using a 3.5mm drill bit,mark the door through the hole in the magnet holder,
as shown in FIG15B.
- 15.8. Remove the holder and using the 3.5mmdrill bit, drill a hole on the previously
made mark.
- 15.9. Install the magnet and cover plate.
- 15.10. Place the two halves of the magnetic keep together.
- 15.11. Open the lead door against the adjoining door to locate the second half and
mark with a pencil.
- 15.12. Fix in position as previously described.
- 15.13. Install cover plate.
FIG 15A
FIG 15B- 16.1. Insert fixing plugs provided into the 13mm holes drilled into the jambs.
- 16.2. Insert the hinge plugs into the top and bottom of all open hinges.
- 16.3. Insert the fork pin screw caps into all of the fork pin screws.
- 16.4. We recommend you use expanding foam to fill the gaps between the outer frame and
building on all 4 sides.
NOTE: The weather seal around the outer frame to the building is the responsibility
of the installer. Silicone and trim kits are available from Origin.
